There’s jerk pork, and then there’s Jerk Pork, with capitals and encrusted in sweet potato. There’s the traditional Jamaican version, best sampled at Boston Jerk Centre in Portland. And then there’s the German version, on the other side of the island, which was created by Cologne’s answer to the late great Norma Shirley.
Chef Axel Wichterich does things to pork that would make even the pig happy to have been sacrificed on the altar of this high priest of cuisine. As for the curry goat, he’s given it a Thai twist. He and his wife, Andrea, are the owners of Marblue Villa Suites in Treasure Beach, a cozy, eight-suite property that does rustic elegance very well. The restaurant faces the ocean, so add salty breezes, cotton-candy sunsets and the gentle lull of waves as background.
At Andrea’s Steakhouse, surf and turf has never tasted so exquisitely sublime. The freshest fish (Axel can vouch for this since he catches them himself) go into his tamarind-crusted fillet of snapper with butter-rum sauce, and snapper in coconut-wine bisque. Don’t tell Anthony Bourdain but the menu changes daily. The No Reservations gourmand could find himself here for months just hanging out at the bar. Here the fare includes coconut-crusted black river crab cakes; Fort Charles sea scallops with crispy Asian slaw; and sugarcane shrimp with a spicy peanut dip. The soups can be rather invigorating (pumpkin bisque with Appleton rum), and choosing a wine could take a while. But take your time with the list which includes the finest from Germany, USA, Australia, Chile and Italy, and the house champagne, Veuve Cliquot.
If you haven’t died of bliss (or passed out drunk) by this point, there’s still dessert. Homemade guava ice crème on a bed of passion fruit sauce and green pepper; mousse au citron; homemade mousse au chocolat; tropical fruit flambé with Caribbean rum and whipping cream’
So how does Axel do it’ Take a cooking class with him and find out. You can fly in at the Lionel Densham Aerodrome, which is just eight minutes away, and get a hands-on demo of the classic filet mignon tenderloin, hand-cut (Black Angus or Hereford) with green pepper and Cognac crème or Café de Paris butter. Or just have lunch.
- Evening diners may want to consider a light sweater or shawl: ocean breezes can be chilly
- The menu is determined in part by what fresh, local ingredients are available: call ahead to see what’s on offer